Croats are in love with their bread. They eat it on the side with every meal. Even the starchy ones, such as pasta, rice or potatoes.
Bread (rolls, swirls, muffins, etc,) of all flavours is
the commonest snack in Croatia. Just look at the number of bakeries in the
Still, the way we like it most is with a spread. And we
like it richly applied. No skimping.
No cutting the bread thinner either. And definitely no
counting how many slices you end up eating.
‘Bread with a spread’ (kruh i namaz) is a Croat’s perfect breakfast and dinner.
Now the only thing to worry about is deciding on your
spread of choice.
Bread and paté
Bread and paté (kruh i pašteta) is one of the most venerated combinations in Croatia. It can be a hearty breakfast (oh, yes!) or a light dinner.
Children get to eat it as an afternoon snack, especially in kindergarten or school. As adults, we feel nostalgic for those carefree days. Which is why we still sneak a slice of kruh i pašteta in between meals. It has nothing to do with being hungry!
You should know that Croatian paté is lighter than a French-style paté or terrine. That’s why we never eat it as our main meal: lunch.
And that’s why it’s totally acceptable to top pašteta
with some cheese or ham!
Bread and lard
In Croatia, bread and lard (kruh i mast) is as old as time. There are many variations on the theme, but one thing is certain: the nation grew up on it.
In some regions of Croatia, lard is not merely lard.
Across north-western parts we have lard with bits of bacon. This is called zabil
in Međimurje and kosana mast in Varaždin and Podravina.
The Germans will know it as Griebenschmalz and the
Austrians as Grammelschmalz.
When it comes to flavour, we can eat it sweet or savoury.
Some people prefer it sprinkled with sugar. Others swear by the savoury
version: spiced with salt and red paprika.
Kruh i mast calls for rustic bread: rye, whole-wheat spelt, corn. Anything that, in the old days, could stay fresh for a long time.
Nowadays, kruh i mast is having a comeback. Just like lard itself is being revived as healthy. But there is a generation, somewhere in between, who frowns upon it.
Those kids grew up on margarine.
Bread and ajvar
In September there is hardly a household which doesn’t
make their own ajvar. Red peppers are roasting everywhere. Entire
streets and neighbourhoods are engulfed in these sweet fumes.
This is the time when Croats indulge in bread and ajvar (kruh i ajvar) most. They might prepare different types of ajvar and invite their friends for a tasting.
For weeks, we might hold off from eating other food. It’s
even acceptable to substitute a well-balanced lunch for kruh i ajvar.
Later in the year, ajvar turns into a relish. We
enjoy it on the side, usually with meat (think ćevapi!). And just like a
Hollywood actor, it wins an Oscar for the best supporting role.
Bread and bakalar na bijelo
It arrived from Italy, more specifically Veneto region, as baccalà in bianco. This creamy spread is made of salted cod and lots of olive oil. What’s not to like?
Honestly, cod spread (bakalar na bijelo) is an acquired taste. It’s very strong so you either love it or hate it. Or you learn to love it.
At which point you can’t stop eating it.
Baccalà in bianco used to be specific to Istria and Kvarner – Rijeka included. But these days you can find it in most Croatian shops in a jar.
Homemade bakalar na bijelo requires a strong man’s
touch. Actually, a tug. Because to make it perfect, stiff cod meat is beaten
until smooth and fluffy.
My sin is to eat baccalà in bianco with a spoon –
skipping bread altogether.
Bread and cheese
Croats love their cheese spread (sirni namaz). It can be anything from the commercial Philadelphia to the sophisticated, homemade versions.
The point is in flavouring. And here again, red paprika
wins the day. Rustle up some cottage cheese and sour cream with a sprinkle of
sweet paprika and your sirni namaz is ready to go.
The more upscale version found in restaurants is the
Liptauer cheese spread. It has added butter, mustard and diced onions for a
more complex aroma.
The recipe comes from Slovakian Liptov region but is known
throughout central Europe.
Croats will add any fat to the cheese – as if cheese is
not fatty enough. But for some reason, healthy veggie oils and dairy fat are a
match made in heaven.
In Međimurje, they pair cottage cheese and pumpkin seed
oil. When you mix these two, you’ll get an avocado green colour. But only if
you use the best quality oil. Add a sprinkle of toasted pumpkin seeds too.
This is my go-to flavour. Not that I am partial, having Međimurje roots. The combination really is out of this world.
Bread, butter and honey
The funny thing about bread and butter (kruh i putar) in Croatia is that it is never only bread and butter.
This simple food fed millions of people, for which it earned the linguistic medal: it became a metaphor. We say bread and butter when we mean someone’s livelihood, or when something is basic, staple and everyday.
Croats are not super crazy about bread and butter alone.
But we can never go for bread and honey or bread and jam without the layer of
butter in between.
Call us spoilt but we love to take our buttered bread to
the next level with drops of luscious honey.
Don’t leave Croatia without trying out favourite flavours.
On the coast look for lavender, sage or thyme honey. And on the continent, you
will love the deep earthy chestnut aromas.
Bread, butter and jam
The same logic applies here. Bread and jam is never just bread and jam. We love butter in between.
Bread, butter and jam (kruh, putar i pekmez) is a timeless combo. No childhood is the same without it. And what we remember the most is our granny’s homemade jam.
In fact, if our memories are from a long time ago, they
will probably be of a marmalade, not jam.
The kind that is so thick, you can cut it with a knife.
The kind that needs to simmer almost all day long. The kind with so little
water content it can last for years in a pantry.
This is how plum or apricot marmalades are made in
These thick marmalades are also used for baking. Think doughnuts with apricot and yeast buns (buhtle) with plum jam. Delicious! If you need the best foolproof recipes, get my cookbook from the link below!
CROATIAN DESSERTS COOKBOOK
The modern fruit preserves are more jam-like: thinner and
with bits of fruit. In this camp, you’ll find raspberry or red current jams as
If you love your continental breakfast, track down the more unique fruit flavours. Cornelian cherry marmalade (pekmez od drijenka) on the continent and fig marmalade (pekmez od smokve) on the coast.
Now, I hope I got you salivating over these bites. Which
is your favourite type of bread? And what do you like to spread on it?
Wanna know the recipe for my spelt sourdough bread
pictured here? Let me know in the comments below!